MacRostie Harvest 2008—The Roller Coaster
Some harvests are remembered for heat, some for cold, and some for rain, but this year we got all three—in rapid succession. It’s been a wild ride, but I think we’ve come to the end of it with some pretty thrilling wines. We started, as usual, with Pinot Noir, which is the first variety to mature, and the first to show stress in hot weather—and that’s how September began—hot. By the 6th sugars had risen to the point where we could no longer wait in a few vineyards, including some of the Wildcat blocks, and so the picking began. Flavors and color looked really good in these early lots, so we were prepared to keep going…but then it cooled off.
While we waited for the rest of the Pinot, we got into the Chardonnay. In a highly unusual twist, we began with some of the older blocks at Sangiacomo—traditionally one of the last vineyards to come in. Here the culprit was lower than average crop levels, which hastens maturity, and usually is a hallmark of high quality as well. By the time we got back to Wildcat for the rest of the Pinot, the flavors were exceptional, and it was almost time to start on the Chardonnay there, which we began picking on the 15th.
Toward the end of September, after all the Pinot was in, the heat came back, pushing our remaining Chardonnay blocks to full maturity. We were picking and pressing at close to full speed when the weather report, which I check at least three times a day, began to hint at the prospect of an early rain. Once it became clear that there was at least a decent prospect for real rain on October 3, I decided to not only finish out the remaining Chardonnay, but to bring in the Merlot, Cabernet, and Syrah as well. Again this choice was simplified by lower than normal yields on these varieties, allowing them to be fully ripe despite the early date on the calendar.
So as I listened to the rain come down last Friday night, it felt good to know that all our grapes were safely inside the winery. As I write this, all the Pinots are in barrel, the other reds are bubbling away in tank, and the Chardonnays are at various stages, some fermenting and some complete. Quality so far looks very good, especially on theWildcat Pinots, which are as dark and rich as always. Too soon to tell on the other varieties, but I am more than optimistic—I think we’ve got another winner on our hands.
-Kevin W. Holt, Winemaker
